1. Ensure that you hear the rear camera start-up sound (Ggglink), which occurs after the camera start-up welcome jingle.
2. With the power on, press in “click” the “R” slot to reset the camera.
3. Statistically speaking, the issue will be in the main Y-Cable (6m to the rear). Test before you replace/install.

SD cards go through immense stress, as they are constantly working and recording over previous data (loop recording).

1. Within the User Guide, we recommend that all customers check their camera once a month to ensure it is operating as it should.
2. Best solution: Try formatting the SD card.

Some customers may notice that when the dash camera’s Wi-Fi is turned on, it can interfere with Apple CarPlay or Android Auto connections. Both systems use Wi-Fi to connect.

1. Disconnect from the car's Wi-Fi network to be able to connect to the camera.
2. With the ignition/engine off, press in the round Wi-Fi button on the side of the front camera for 3-4 seconds. This manually turns on the camera's Wi-Fi.

1. With power to the camera, place the SIM eject tool/paperclip/earring into the back of the front camera into the “Reset” slot, labelled as “R”. This will reset the camera and Wi-Fi.
2. Update the Cameras Software (receive from Supplier/Admin). Alternatively, swap out the customer's camera with a new front camera, and carry out a warranty claim with Supplier/Admin.

Statistically speaking, there is nothing wrong with the camera; more likely a setting on the customer's phone, blocking the signal.

1. Try “power cycling” the client's phone, turn it off, and back on.
2. If an iPhone, go to phone settings, scroll to Apps, find “Sight Pro”, open it. Ensure “Local Network is on”, try turning the “App mobile data” to the Off position.
3. Turn on “Airplane Mode.” This can often remove all phone interference.
4. Check to see if the client's phone has a VPN. If so, turn it off.

1. If an iPhone, go to phone settings, scroll to Apps, find “Sight Pro”, open it. Ensure “Local Network is on”, try turning the “App mobile data” to the Off position.

Every kit has a voltage cut-off box, which cuts power completely to the cameras once this pre-set voltage is reached (12.4v or 12.2v or 12v), so as not to drain the vehicle's battery.

1. Statistically speaking, this is most often caused by customers not switching off their vehicle's ignition (button) when parked, as there is no sound. Remembering that most Hybrids at low speeds utilise the electric motor, not the combustion engine.
2. It is possible that the voltage cut-off box may be faulty. Test and check.

In many modern vehicles, when you lock the car, the body control module (BCM) tells most electronics to go into a “sleep” or low-power state.

1. If you don’t lock the car, the BCM may keep certain systems (interior electronics, sensors, even CAN bus communications) partially awake, which keeps power flowing.
2. It is possible that the voltage cut-off box may be faulty. Test and check.

1. Try unplugging the main USB-C power cable and plugging it back in.
2. Try formatting the SD card.
3. With power to the camera, place the SIM eject tool/paperclip/earring into the back of the front camera into the “Reset” slot, labelled as “R”.

1. Try formatting the SD card.
2. With the power on, press in “click” the “R” slot to reset the camera.
3. Disconnect anyone else’s phone who may have connected previously.
4. Try another phone. (It may be the phone's settings)
5. You can always remove the camera, plug it into (provided) a wall socket, PC or power bank and connect outside the car. If it connects, it is likely an installation issue or a faulty cable.